Straight axle conversions

[mr. warehouse]

Here's a short list of what you'll need:

Good swing axle center section - Since you're going through the trouble of swapping the tranny out you might as well get a new center section. If you can't afford one then at least get something you know for a *fact* to be in good working order. Nothing is worse than finishing up the job only to find out you have no reverse or 3rd gear.

Long axles - These can be either short spline or long spline depending on the brakes you plan on using (see here http://lowbus.com/BB/index.php?topic=19.0)

Bearing caps - Early T1 (any short axle) and Early T3 (part number 311 501 311) are what you are looking for. They have the right bearing depth to work with the end casting on the modified axle tubes.

Modified axle tubes - These are a combo of long axle tubes with short end castings on them that work out to be the right length for the width of the rear of your Bus.

Modified spring plates - These are a set of Bus spring plates machined or cut to accept the T1 / T3 end casting

Brakes - Again, see here http://lowbus.com/BB/index.php?topic=19.0

Nose cone - If you have a late '60 and newer Bus you can reuse your stock nose cone / hockey stick. If you are lucky enough to be working on a Bus with a split case tranny then you'll need to buy a later nose cone, hockey stick, and conversion front mount (see below)

Conversion front mount - If your Bus has a split case tranny you'll see that your front mount is way different than any you've seen before. The conversion mount allows you to put a "tunnel tranny" into your Bus and keep the shift rod lined up with the hockey stick.

E-brake cables - 64 - 67 cables can be made to work on just about any year Bus with a little ingenuity.

Nuts and bolts - Just about everything off the old tranny can be reused, with the exception of the spring plate to reduction box bolts. You'll need to get longer bolts with washers and nuts to attach the new axle tubes to the new spring plates.

Brake lines - New soft lines are always a plus, they will be the same as the stock ones. For the hard lines you will need to get something shorter than the stock ones, unless you want to loop them and bend multiple times (not recommended)


Please add anything I have missed.

[Franz]

Heres another way:

Instead of running conversion parts you can narrow the torsion housing to be the same width as a beetle's, and bolt all of the type one stuff in. The advantage is that you can run either long or short axle, and have more room for big wheels/tires. The down side is that its permanent, and takes a little more work to do.

[mr. warehouse]

I never understood why you went through all that work just to achieve the same goal as a straight axle conversion.
Now that you explain the wider wheel / tire combo it makes good sense. Nice work!


One question.
Since you have the torsion off why not re-index it up so theres no need to notch the spring plates as much?
If you went up far enough you could even add some preload, right?

Self edit:
I went back and looked at you pics again and it looks like you're using "z" style plates anyway.

[Franz]

I never understood why you went through all that work just to achieve the same goal as a straight axle conversion.
Now that you explain the wider wheel / tire combo it makes good sense. Nice work!


One question.
Since you have the torsion off why not re-index it up so theres no need to notch the spring plates as much?
If you went up far enough you could even add some preload, right?

Self edit:
I went back and looked at you pics again and it looks like you're using "z" style plates anyway.

Yeah, turning the torsion housing a little helps. I try not to turn them too much on a 62 and earlier...afraid that I may not be able to get the wheels on. This way you can also run stock wheels and get away from the thing drums if you go long axle/axle tube.

This is a good way to get those 911R's of yours on a bus....although all of your busses are too rare to cut up. 8).

[russell]

also if you decided to do some of those "king crabs" in 6"  ;)

[crazyeyes]

i've been staring at those pics for about 10 min now.. i get the idea of shortening everything... but whats with the drilled holes???

sorry if that seems like a dumb question... and will this concept work the same on bays (mainly my 68)??

[mr. warehouse]

although all of your busses are too rare to cut up. 8).

I've cut a welded a fair share of buses, but now I'm a BIG fan of unbolt and it's stock again.
At some point tubs, narrowed beams, the rest of this stuff is going to be looked at like cut wheel wells and wood bumpers.
Some things just aren't made to be cut into.

I will take a cut torsion over offset spring plates any day to fit some 7R's on a Bus though. Somethings just look wrong.

i've been staring at those pics for about 10 min now.. i get the idea of shortening everything... but whats with the drilled holes???

That's where you have to drill out the "spot" welds to get the inner and out portion of housing to separate.

[russell]

so seeing as i'm going to be doing this soon, and i know you've told me what to cut on the rear area, but what do you have any pictures or templates of what i need to cut off the sides in order for the tranny to go in?

[mr. warehouse]

so seeing as i'm going to be doing this soon, and i know you've told me what to cut on the rear area, but what do you have any pictures or templates of what i need to cut off the sides in order for the tranny to go in?

No template needed. The lines are pretty much there already. I could talk you through it faster than I could type it. Or ask Carl, he just did the cuts on the Badger Bus last week when he was at the shop.

[crazyeyes]

do you have a pic of the "Conversion front mount"

i lik epictures....

[mr. warehouse]

do you have a pic of the "Conversion front mount"

i lik epictures....

In the gallery...

[crazyeyes]

do you have a pic of the "Conversion front mount"

i lik epictures....

In the gallery...

Pm sent

wow.. i'm spending alot on this thing!!!

well worth it.. glad i sold my bug too!!!

[lowsplitJim]

do you have a pic of the "Conversion front mount"

i lik epictures....

In the gallery...

Seems like it should be brought up, and im sure mest everyone knows already, but for those that dont. If you use a solid mount in the front, make sure to use a solid mount in the rear or its just a matter of time before the nosecone breaks around the bolt area... my2c

[KombiMonster]

Here's a short list of what you'll need:
Modified axle tubes - These are a combo of long axle tubes with short end castings on them that work out to be the right length for the width of the rear of your Bus.
Please add anything I have missed.

long axle "tubes" and short axles "tubes" are the same length...

[mr. warehouse]

Here's a short list of what you'll need:
Modified axle tubes - These are a combo of long axle tubes with short end castings on them that work out to be the right length for the width of the rear of your Bus.
Please add anything I have missed.

long axle "tubes" and short axles "tubes" are the same length...

True, until you combine them.
Kind of like the Wonder Twins.

[KombiMonster]

Here's a short list of what you'll need:
Modified axle tubes - These are a combo of long axle tubes with short end castings on them that work out to be the right length for the width of the rear of your Bus.
Please add anything I have missed.

long axle "tubes" and short axles "tubes" are the same length...

True, until you combine them.
Kind of like the Wonder Twins.

Your saying you can put short end castings on a long end casting tube and it will be the right lenght???...With no welding? 

[lowsplitJim]

Pretty sure thats how Wolfgang explained it to me too, but it takes a press to do this. I just buyem from mr. warehouse when I need a set.

[mr. warehouse]

Here's a short list of what you'll need:
Modified axle tubes - These are a combo of long axle tubes with short end castings on them that work out to be the right length for the width of the rear of your Bus.
Please add anything I have missed.

long axle "tubes" and short axles "tubes" are the same length...

True, until you combine them.
Kind of like the Wonder Twins.

Your saying you can put short end castings on a long end casting tube and it will be the right lenght???...With no welding? 

10-4 good buddy.
That's the way I've always done it.
Now with new short end castings available, and new axle tubes there is no more "hunting" for the right stuff.
I'm not going to lie though. I have Rancho make 90% of mine for me when they build my trannys. Mike tod me once I was paying for it anyway so I might as well take advantage.

I only make them now when someone buys a "kit" (no trans)

[KombiMonster]

Are the dimples in different places?....must be...cause I know them damn tubes are the same length...

[mr. warehouse]

The end castings are longer on a long axle trans.

[KombiMonster]

I know the castings are longer, but with the tubes being the same length, short or long axle, I don't see how putting short end castings on long end casting tubes makes up the difference.....unless the dimple on the long end casting tube is in a different spot.... 

[Ralph S]

I like the idea of narrowing the torsion housing in order to run wider wheels. But I was wondering if there is anyone that sells broached spring plates so that you wouldn't need to shorten the torsion bars?

[cage66]

I have been considering doing mine
 I know Nate at Wagenswest makes springplates from stock materials so I dont see why making a set with the splines out 1.5" would be too hard to do. I havent talked to him about it though
 Or just cut the ends off and weld in a 1.5" spacer
 Picture from Colby VWsarent4hippies

[Ralph S]

Thanks for the pic. Doesn't look too bad to do. But would the heat from welding distort any of the splines?

[cage66]

I know Colby drives his bay now and have not hear of any problems

[Ralph S]

That's good to know I will give it a try.